Growing Hydrangeas is relatively easy; however, learning how to properly prune Hydrangeas will guarantee you get the most out of your gorgeous Hydrangea shrubs. What many Hydrangea growers do not know is that different types of Hydrangea plants have different pruning requirements; improper pruning can literally mean a bloomless season (or worse)! Read on to learn how to keep your Hydrangea bushes in tip-top shape.
First Things First: How to Identify Your Hydrangea
If you already know your Hydrangea variety you can skip this part! However, if you still need to sort out exactly what type of Hydrangea you have, this segment is definitely required reading. The leaf stems (petioles) are the biggest clue to your Hydrangea’s identity, but even more so when combined with the type of flower it produces.
There are four common types of Hydrangeas:
Mopheads/Lacecaps (Macrophylla)
The leaf stems on a Mophead or Lacecap will be short, meaning that the leaves hug the main stem. The leaves on this type are usually heart-shaped or ovoid with serrated edges. They’re about 4 to 6 inches long and 3 to 5 inches wide, though some varieties will be larger. The leaves are also somewhat thick and semi-shiny. On a Mophead Hydrangea, the blossoms grow in round and oval mounds of tightly clumped individual flowers. On the Lacecap varieties, the flower head shape is almost the same, but there will be itty-bitty, lacy-looking flower buds in the middle, surrounded by larger, fully developed flowers. The buds are the fertile flowers, while the full blossoms around the edges are infertile. Though considered one group when it comes to their pruning requirements, each of these look quite different when in bloom. It is also interesting to note that Mopheads are the ONLY Hydrangea in which its blossoms are colored when they first open. All other Hydrangea species’ blossoms will be white when they initially emerge, so that may be the first hint that you don’t have a Mophead, unless you have a white Mophead cultivar, which is fairly uncommon.
Varieties:
- Endless Summer Original: A reblooming hydrangea that produces large, mophead flowers in shades of blue or pink, depending on soil pH.
- Let's Dance Big Band: Features rich, saturated pink or blue mophead blooms, perfect for adding bold color to gardens.
- Let's Dance Rhythmic Blue: Offers large, vibrant blue mophead flowers in acidic soil, ideal for dramatic garden displays.
- Summer Crush: Compact variety with intense raspberry red or neon purple blooms, great for smaller spaces.
- BloomStruck: A tough and reliable reblooming hydrangea with vibrant violet-blue or rose-pink flowers.
Growing Tips:
- Choose a location with morning sun and afternoon shade.
- Soil should be well-draining.
- pH affects flower color (acidic for blue, alkaline for pink).
- Water regularly, especially during dry spells.
- Fertilize in spring with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer.
Oakleaf (Quercifolia)
Oakleaf Hydrangeas have leaves that have the same shape as the leaves on a red oak tree. The size of the leaves can range from 4 inches to 10 inches long and just as wide, often staying on the plant most of the winter. They are not, however, considered an evergreen because after several freezes they are not very attractive. They also have cones of flowers, as opposed to mounds or balls of flowers, and ALL Oakleaf Hydrangeas will bloom white before changing color. It should be very easy to identify this species if you have it.
Varieties:
- Ruby Slippers: Compact variety with white flowers that age to deep pink, great for smaller spaces and vibrant fall foliage.
- Snow Queen: Features large, conical white flowers that turn pink, along with attractive oak-shaped leaves.
- Gatsby Moon: Offers unique double white flowers that transition to green, providing a stunning, layered look.
- Pee Wee: Dwarf variety with charming white flowers and striking fall color, ideal for small gardens.
- Munchkin: Compact oakleaf hydrangea with dense, white flower clusters that age to pink, excellent for limited spaces.
Growing Tips:
- Can tolerate more sun than other Hydrangeas, though partial shade is ideal.
- Prefers well-draining, rich soil.
- Water deeply and regularly, especially while your Hydrangeas are becoming established and during particularly dry periods.
- Fertilize in the spring with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer.
Snowball (H. Arborescens)
Snowball Hydrangeas are hands down the most common type of Hydrangea. The flower heads may remind you of lollipops. They are usually very large, each being composed of tiny, individual blossoms. The leaves are usually thinner, and oftentimes heart-shaped, but are somewhat like the Mophead. The leaves tend to be a bit floppier than Mophead leaves and have a matte finish, as opposed to being shiny. The leaf petioles are also long, holding the leaves further out from the main stem. The one single trait that sets this species apart is that the blossoms will first emerge green in color, turning white for two or three weeks, and then turning green again; this is when you can dry them. As these humongous blossoms tend to fall over in high wind and heavy rain, you may want to plant them on the side of the house with the least wind, as long as it is not in complete shade.
Varieties:
- Annabelle: Known for its massive, white snowball-like blooms and reliable performance in various garden settings.
- Incrediball: Improved Annabelle with sturdier stems and even larger, long-lasting white flowers.
- Invincibelle Spirit II: The first pink 'Annabelle' type with strong stems and vibrant pink blooms.
- Invincibelle Mini Mauvette: Compact variety with deep mauve-pink flowers, perfect for smaller gardens or containers.
- Haas' Halo: Features enormous lacecap blooms with a wide halo of white flowers, providing a dramatic garden presence.
Growing Tips:
- Tolerates more sun than other Hydrangeas; choose a location with partial to full sun.
- Prefers moist, well-draining soil.
- Water regularly, especially during dry periods.
- Can be pruned heavily in late winter or early spring as it blooms on new wood.
- Fertilize in spring with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer.
Paniculata (PG)
The leaves on Paniculata plants are normally smaller than other Hydrangeas. They are also thinner and can either be finely or coarsely toothed. They have a rougher overall texture and are medium-green with a matte finish. The biggest identifying characteristic is that the leaves grow three to each stem node and are spaced around the node, in a whorl. This type of Hydrangea can be pruned to grow in either a tree or shrub form and is hard to identify by the type of flower heads. They can be cone-shaped or round, full or sparse, stand erect or droop. In fact, the name Paniculata comes from the panicle-type flower head they have. Like the Oakleaf, these blossoms will emerge white and turn pink as they age. These Hydrangeas can grow to lofty heights of 8 to 10 feet and sometimes taller, matching their height in breadth.
Varieties:
- Limelight Prime: Lively green blooms that mature into rich shades of pink and red.
- Vanilla Strawberry: Features panicles that start white, turn pink, and then strawberry-red, creating a tri-color effect.
- Pinky Winky: Unique two-toned flower heads that start white and turn pink, providing a stunning display.
- Quick Fire: Early blooming variety with white flowers that quickly turn to pink-red, extending the blooming season.
- Bobo: Compact variety with abundant white flowers that turn pink, ideal for small gardens or container planting.
Growing Tips:
- Most sun-tolerant of all Hydrangeas; PG can handle full sun to partial shade.
- Prefers well-draining soil.
- Water deeply and regularly, especially while your plants are becoming established and during dry spells.
- Prune in late winter or early spring, as PG blooms on new wood.
- Can be trained into tree form with selective pruning.
- Fertilize in spring with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer.
How to Prune Hydrangea Plants
Now that you’ve identified your variety of Hydrangea, we can talk about how to prune your Hydrangea plant to keep it healthy and beautiful. Please note that pruning and deadheading are two different things. Deadheading means removing the old blossoms as they fade, while pruning changes the total appearance and form of the plant.
There are two methods for pruning Hydrangeas:
Method 1: This method is for Mopheads, Lacecaps, and Oakleaf hydrangeas. These Hydrangeas bloom on old wood, which means they develop buds on stems that have been on the plant since the summer before the current season. They develop these buds sometime between August and October for the following summer’s blossoms. Therefore, if you remove these stems in the late fall, winter, or spring, the flower-producing buds are also gone, which means NO FLOWERS (or only a very few) this summer. So it pays to use prudence and patience when pruning Mopheads, Lacecaps, or Oakleaf Hydrangeas.
Method 2: Use this method for the Snowball (H. arborescens) and PG (PeeGee or H. paniculata) type of Hydrangeas. Both of these Hydrangeas bloom on new wood, which means that you can prune them anytime, except in the spring when they are setting buds, or in the summer when they are either preparing to bloom or are in full bloom. Some people even grow hedges of the Snowball Hydrangea, while the PG variety is often trained to be a tree! They prune Snowballs back, almost to the ground in the fall, so as to present a neater winter appearance. Just be aware that this type of drastic pruning can keep the stems from reaching the sturdiest size to adequately support the huge flower heads. If you do this, you may have to stake your flowers in the spring and summer or grow them along a fence and use string across the front to offer support when in full bloom.
Top 3 Tips for Pruning Hydrangeas
- You can remove dead stems at any time throughout the year; doing this as often as needed will help to maintain the thrilling look of your Hydrangea bushes.
- Once your plant is at least 5 years old, prune about 1/3 of the older, living stems, cutting them down to the ground in late June through early August. Try to choose stems that are not already blooming or that are starting to look a bit naked. Keep an eye on how this will change the shape of the current plant, stepping back often as you prune, to see how it is taking shape. Doing this will revitalize the plant.
- To reduce the size of a plant, cut it back in June or July without doing away with the following year’s blossoms. It won’t take long for it to return to its original size, though this is why planting your Hydrangeas where their large size is not an issue, is the best option.
When pruning PGs: we don’t recommend pruning every year. Just trim out crisscrossing branches, those that detract from the overall form, and remove dead stems. The developing trunk and the top branches should not be removed, and you should also not attempt to train it to look like a tree the first year or two. Patience is key here. Each year, just trim a few of the lower branches in order to expose the developing trunk, and then let nature take its course. Another note: if a tree-pruned Paniculata’s main trunk breaks close to the ground, it will grow back as a shrub unless you start the training process again from the new shoots.
Don’t Want to Prune?
Choose an Everblooming Hydrangea variety! Though pruning may seem like a lot of work, it really isn’t, and it can be quite gratifying. Once you have the knowledge, the rest is easy. But if you’d rather not worry about it, there are a small group of Mophead Hydrangeas that will bloom regardless of when they are pruned. These are called Everblooming Hydrangeas and will bloom on both old and new wood.
Pink or Blue? It’s Up to You!
Want to amend your soil to change the color of your Mopheads? It’s simple. The trick to getting these Hydrangeas to change color lies in the soil pH. Hi-Yield Agricultural Limestone will decrease the pH of your soil relatively quickly, resulting in blue coloration. Hi-Yield Aluminum Sulphate will increase the pH, giving you pink blossoms. You may want to invest in an inexpensive soil tester to determine where your pH lies right now, especially if you are planting new Mophead Hydrangeas and want to be sure of a particular flower color.
Plan Ahead!
You can always plan ahead for your next Hydrangea planting season. Check out our collection here. From small space Hydrangeas to Panicle, Snowball, and more, we have a choice of varieties you need to get growing! We make it easy to grow, prune, and add the beauty and vibrant color of Hydrangea bushes to your personally landscaped spaces!
With the right knowledge and techniques, as well as patience and attention to detail, you can keep your Hydrangeas healthy, beautiful, and blooming season after season. Whether you’re identifying your Hydrangea variety, learning the specifics of pruning, or following the best growing tips, the effort you put into caring for these stunning shrubs will be ultimately rewarding well worth it.
